But there's still water out there!

Sometimes...often...as I'm finishing up a guided tour I realize I'm nowhere near ready to get out of my kayak. Just because the paying part of the paddling is over doesn't mean there's not still water in the creek. Fortunately, I'm almost always in a position to do something about that need to stay out just a little longer.

I was loading the boats onto my Subaru after a Chatham Vineyards Paddle the other day when the bug bit me. (Not an actual bug, you see. An actual bug would NEVER bite you on the Eastern Shore of Virginia.) The breeze was so nice, and the air was so clear in the late afternoon light that I felt like I could see every single waving blade of cordgrass on the shoreline. And, oh my gosh, I just love kayaking on the Shore in October so much. So, I did what any good self-propelled boater would do in such a situation. I rode back up to the winery, asked Julie to pour me a glass of Church Creek Vintner's Blend, and took myself for a little excursion.

breezy times on Church Creek

The family who owns Chatham Vineyards has put every bit of land they own along Church Creek under conservation easement, thus securing it as the middle of nowhere forever. It is thanks, in great part, to stewards like the Wehners that we have so many pristine paddling locations on this narrow strip of land.

My little round two was very pleasing, but it wasn't very long. The tide was pretty low, so I couldn't sneak into the sheltered parts of the creek to hunker/paddle where the wind (which had really picked up!) couldn't get me. Around one bend, I found a slightly deeper "pond" where I put my paddle in my lap and drifted for a bit. The water is especially clear at this time of year, and I was perfectly delighted to float along watching snail tracks in the mud beneath me until I ever so slowly eventually ran aground. Turning myself around, I looked up and saw that a juvenile bald eagle had been watching me meander through the marsh while I had been watching the snails meander through the mud. Like I'd busted him spying, he immediately swooped off his branch and away, showing off his already impressive wingspan.

It seemed unlikely that I would get to top that in the last hour or less before sunset, so I started back towards Chatham. My phone buzzed in my pfd, and a friend told me she and her clan were on their way to Cape Charles and wondered whether I was in town. I told her that I was, in fact, nowhere near town but that I didn't consider that to be a hindrance. The quiet of the post-tour solo paddle is a wonderful thing, but sipping something icy cold with loved ones on the harbor afterwards is pretty good, too. So, I loaded one more kayak onto the Forester and headed on down the road...

-Margaret 10/22/12

Paddling Chincoteague...worth waking up early for.

    I typically guide in lower Northampton County, so any opportunity to paddle up on Chincoteague is worth waking up early and making the hour and a half drive from Cape Charles to our Island shop. The waking up before 7:00 am (yes, that's early for me) was a little rough this morning, but we're having an early September cool snap, so I was awake the second I stepped out the door and the air hit my face.
    I'm always blown away by the number of birds you see as you drive the Chincoteague Causeway through the marsh to the Island. Most notable are the great egrets and snowy egrets which stand out whiter than white against the cordgrass and mud flats, but there's a lot of everybody out there. The last time I came up, I saw a laughing gull standing on a sign that said, "KEEP OFF." Delightful. Birds can't read.
    My guests and I had spoken on the phone a couple of days earlier, and I already liked them. They'd come from Richmond to partake in Chincoteague's Second Saturday Art Stroll and decided to make a vacation out of it. She had done quite a lot of canoeing but not much kayaking. He had never kayaked at all and described himself as, basically, the lanky guy who could never quite get into his comfort zone on the water. I like it when people are honest. And, no, he didn't fall in. He really did a pretty good job...and he loved it! 
    Before we even hit the water, we saw a little green heron stalking along through the oysters. Little green herons (That's their whole name, by the way. I'm not trying to diminish them at all.) were our escorts in the marsh today. At almost every turn, we'd come across one. They make a seriously squawky ruckus when you surprise them, then fly off with the feathers on their head puffed out like you just woke them up on the couch, and they can't believe the nerve of you. One seemed sure that we were chasing him as he flew and landed, flew and landed in ten foot spurts along our path.
    This was a low tide paddle, another rare treat for me, and that almost always means loads of bird activity. I took us off the beaten path and down a relatively deep (maybe 1 1/2 ft) creek through the marsh in hopes of checking out some mud flat action away from everyone else who was on the water this morning. That paid off big time! We saw great blue herons, little green herons, snowy egrets and great egrets nearly everywhere we looked, many of whom were so intent on their fishing that they let us get pretty close before grumbling and flapping away. We even saw a belted kingfisher perched on a piece of pvc pipe that was marking who knows what. By paddling along the path of the visibly falling tide through the grass with the assumption that, if water is moving, it must be coming from somewhere, we triumphantly made our way out to Assateague Channel and were treated to a great view of Assateague Lighthouse.
    We were on the home stretch of our little outing, and, while my guests and I were thrilled with all the birds we had seen, I was secretly a bit sorry not to have come across a little blue heron. I love the contrast of their dark blue feathers against the bright green of the cordgrass, and they're such a pleasing size. It's wonderful how holding still out there and focusing on one thing will bring another into view and then another and another. As we were floating and watching an osprey circle on a thermal current high above, a little blue popped his head out of the marsh right in front of us. Then, as we floated and watched the heron hunt among the oysters and ribbed mussels, three herring gulls flew by with the first one squabbing at the other two while a small blue crab dangled tenuously from its beak. There was no question as to the translation of his squawks!
    All three of us were grinning by the time we got back to the kayak launch. It had been the kind of trip that was so wonderful we had to wrap up the morning with a group hug at the boat ramp. Then I headed off to wash our boats down, and they headed off to do whatever it is people do after an enchanting two hour paddle through the salt marshes of Chincoteague and Assateague Islands.
    -Margaret, 9/12/12
   

View of the marsh from the deck of our Chincoteague Island shop.

One Crazy Summer

As a semi seasoned traveller, I’ve often heard of the common cliché "the places less travelled offer the best and most diverse experiences". The Eastern shore of Virginia didn’t disappoint…

Arriving in Norfolk on the east coast of the USA for the first time I saw, as expected, a multitude of highways, advertisements and block buildings. Although coming from a life in Asia, I felt strangely at home.

After a 20-minute drive courtesy of my ‘local’ girlfriend, Ashley, we arrived at the entrance to the Chesapeake Bay bridge tunnel. Here she told me this was the last turning point before leaving the mainland and if there was anything I wanted to buy or do that required anything larger than a small row of shops, now was the time to say so. I happily declined the offer, and we began making our way across the ocean on the pillar- supported road to the eastern shore.

Arriving on the shore, surrounded by greenery and wildlife, I wondered if in fact we had crossed time zones and not the 20-mile stretch or so of the Chesapeake Bay. We headed to the town of Cape Charles and although I didn’t know it at the time, this was to become my temporary home during the most visitor-populated summer months.

Whilst in Cape Charles I bumped into a well-known figure in the town, Dave Burden. After I pieced together some clues I had picked whilst in the town I discovered that Dave was, amongst other roles, the owner of South East Expeditions (SEE), a one stop shop for any water based adventure you might seek. Luck seemed to be on my side that afternoon as Dave spoke of a potential position at SEE for the summer months to include any job from moving wood to leading kayak tours. I’ve always embraced a varied schedule so this possibility, in this setting, initially seemed too good to be true – it wasn’t.

Working at SSE did, as I thought, involve a wide range of jobs from moving kayaks to looking after the store. The first highlight came in the form of an ACA (American Canoe Association) course, which at that time was the barrier between what I was currently doing and becoming a kayak guide. Although I had a large amount of experience in water based sports it was clear from the outset that even though we were in a relaxed rural setting, it was vital to apply ourselves every step of the way for both quality and safety purposes. Making it through the action and theory based course along with spending hours and hours developing my area specific knowledge led to my first opportunity to lead a kayak tour. Taking people out kayaking would involve preparation in boat moving, readying the guests for the adventure that awaits them and most importantly ensuring everyone has a good time, whilst keeping the day problem free. As each trip is so different and based on a massive number of variables including weather, tide and people, knowing the area inside out became vital.

Pretty soon, as the season took off I found myself taking folks out on a daily basis to assist them in exploring the wonders of an untouched, nature rich area. The only time it seemed not to be sunny was during a rare storm and that became a fascinating experience in itself. As time went on my enthusiasm for showing visitors the area only seemed to grow and it’s safe to say I even became accustomed to the hotter-than-England climate.

The days were varied, sometimes I would be leading a family of four on their first kayak adventure and my aim would be to give them a gentle introduction to what I hoped, for them, would become a lifelong indulgence. This would involve meandering through the salt marsh discussing the area, kayaking or just life in general. Other times I would be leading (or chasing) a group of teenagers keen on pushing as many boundaries as possible, this I found this surprisingly easy to manage as a decade ago, I was that teenager. Exploring the islands beyond the marsh became a fascination of mine and even up until the day before I left I was finding new ways to make each trip unique.

Eventually commitments elsewhere caught up with me and it became time to pack my bags. Although my time on the shore was in many ways short, it was long enough for me to be sure I’ll be back and I’m thankful to all who made it happen.

James and Ashley enjoying the sights and sounds of the Annual Chincoteague Pony Swim from the best seats in the house

Storm the Shore & Kiptopeke Kayak Symposium

This weekend the Cape Charles area will play host to two major kayaking related sporting events. The Kiptopeke Kayak Symposium runs from September 23^rd – 25^th, and is headquartered at Kiptopeke State Park. The Storm the Shore Adventure Race starts at 9:00am on Saturday the 24^th and runs for 30 hours through mid-day on Sunday.

The Kiptopeke Kayak Symposium will offer a wide range of courses for paddlers of all different skill levels. The focal area for this event will be the seaside of the Eastern Shore, one of the most remote and scenic areas on the mid-Atlantic. Participants will be attending from at least 5 states and the District of Columbia. They will have access to a wide range of courses, with small classes that will be delivered by some of the area’s top coaches.

Paddlers will be able to choose from a wide selection of courses each day, including both skill development and touring options. Some courses will be offered in the calmer waters of the Chesapeake Bay, while others will take place in more challenging open ocean environments.

The Storm the Shore Adventure Race returns to the area after a two- year hiatus. This popular event is the highpoint of a challenging series of adventure races put on by Hampton Roads Advenutre (HRAdventure). Hampton Roads Adventure is a volunteer not-for-profit organization dedicated to bringing affordable and accessible adventure racing to the Mid-Atlantic region.

Adventure Racing is a multi-discipline sport requiring teams to navigate their way through challenging terrain using nothing more than a map, a compass, and their wits. Adventure Race teams must travel together throughout the entire competition whether they are trekking, paddling, biking, and even while ascending the face of a mountain. Adventure Races are a true test of physical endurance, mental tenacity, heart, and teamwork regardless of whether it is a sprint race lasting 6 hours or an expedition race lasting several days. There is no other sport that delves as deeply into the human experience.

For more information on either of these events, or to find out how you can volunteer to assist with future events, please contact SouthEast Expeditions at (757)-331-2680, or visit their web page at www.SouthEastExpeditions.com.

While both events are primarily organized and put on by groups from off the Eastern Shore, the professional kayak guides and staff at SouthEast Expeditions are recognized as vital local partners with the unique knowledge base and experience to ensure that these events are safe, fun, and successful for everyone involved. As the Eastern Shore continues to gain recognition as a premier kayaking destination, more and more paddlers are discovering the allure of this land between the waters.

With over 100 paddlers and supporting staff coming to the Shore for these two events, as well as their friends and families, the estimated direct economic impact is expected to be close to $100,000.

A Chincoteague SUP Adventure

As we set up for today’s Stand Up Paddleboard lesson a couple of details led me to think we should do something a little differently. First, the woman who had signed up for the class had just taken a private kayak trip with one of our guides yesterday through the marshes where I normally teach. Second, the waters of Queen’s Sound looked pretty inviting as I drove across the Chincoteague causeway earlier in the morning.

As Kim filled out her paperwork I asked if she was interested in doing a little exploring today in a place where we rarely paddle. With a quiet, subtle confidence she confirmed that she was up for a bit of an adventure and we were off to Queen’s Sound Landing with a couple of SUPs and a rough idea of what the next two hours would bring.

Being a bit exposed half way between the mainland and the island, our launch site picks up wind a little earlier and more effectively than I had anticipated. Shortly after we hit the water it was clear that for a beginner paddler, heading in to the wind was not going to be all that much fun, and in fact if the wind picked up it may not even be possible.

I scrambled a plan B, talked it over with Kim, and darted back to the car to call the shop to arrange a pick up over on the mainland. Kim and I were going to do the first ever SUP run from the Chincoteague causeway to the mainland of the Eastern Shore.

For a petit quiet vet from Pennsylvania to sign on to this program so quickly told me that the confidence I sensed earlier was indeed real. It also should have told me that she didn’t really understand what we were getting ourselves in to.

25 minutes later as we ripped along down-wind, Kim was practicing getting on and off the board (off is pretty easy) when she looked over her shoulder and saw how far we had come from where we set out. She confirmed my suspicions when she said “Wow. I had no idea how much of an adventure we were in for.”

But she hung in there and was soon pitching herself down the faces of the 2-3 foot rolling chop that had been kicked up by the ever-increasing Southeast wind. We made some jokes about how we should have been doing a kiteboarding class instead, but Kim kept putting the paddle in the water and making progress toward that distant shore.

More than once I watched a wave rear up behind her as she crossed a shoal and had to stop myself from yelling advice that would just confuse her. Back on land later, she would confirm that ignorance is bliss by insisting that if she had any idea how big the waves were it would have totally freaked her out.

By the time we hopped off our boards at the Captain’s Cove Marina I was truly impressed by how well my quiet, confident new friend had handled both herself and her board as the first person to cross this sound by paddleboard. To do it in those kinds of conditions was even more impressive.

If you saw Kim riding her bike down Maddox to the beach, or sitting at the Sea Star Café having lunch you probably wouldn’t think “I’ll bet that woman is a bad ass on a stand up paddleboard.” But you should – because she is.

Thanks for a great day on the water Kim. I am looking forward to getting back out there to push my limits as much as you pushed yours, and I hope to be able to do so with the good humor and grace that you exhibited all day.

Today this is why I love my job. Tomorrow it could be because of a great adventure we have on the water with you. Make it happen!

Onancock Challenge Kayak Race Sept. 10 2011

SouthEast Expeditions’ 14th Annual Onancock Kayak/Canoe Challenge has some new divisions and pre-race clinics to give you a competitive edge. The race is Saturday, Sept. 10, 2011, at 9 a.m. during Onancock’s Harborfest, a festive weekend of food, music and water fun on the Eastern Shore of Virginia.

The weekend starts on Friday with two pre-race clinics led by Chuck Conley, instructor and winner of last year’s race. The morning session, 8 a.m. to noon, features racing strategy and boat control. The Forward Stroke Clinic (with video critique) will be from 1-5 p.m. Cost for each session is $55 with your own kayak (add $20 to rent one), or both sessions for $95 (add $30 to rent a kayak)

Afterwards, relax during Onancock’s Second Friday Art Stroll, 5-8 p.m. and the kick-off of Harborfest with live music on the wharf at 7:30 p.m.

The 9 a.m. race on Saturday has 5 & 10 KM courses on beautiful Onancock Creek. There will be new divisions this year for Kids 8 years and up and Stand-Up Paddlboards. It is a great event for paddlers who are serious about enjoying their time on the water as well as those who want to test their skills against the best racers in the region, including the legendary Olympic Champion Frank Havens, fastest octogenarian on the water!

Pre-registration is $15; $20 the day of the race and includes a T-shirt. Some rental kayaks will be available by reservation. Download the registration form for both the race and the clinics, print and mail in to save time on race morning.

For more information, call SouthEast Expeditions at Onancock Wharf: 757-354-4FUN, email mary@southeastexpeditions.com., and sign up for updates on Facebook.

Why I Heart Kayaks

I'd like to reflect upon how much easier kayaks are to paddle than canoes.

For one thing, kayaks are studier and heaps easier to balance in. I noticed this while seeing my boyfriend nearly bucked out when he stepped from the dock into a seemingly innocuous canoe.

Also, canoes are more difficult to propel through the water. You have to switch hands when you paddle on different sides and canoe hulls are wide and cumbersome. You feel like you're dragging the boat though slippery mud.

Now, what I want is a slick, slim-lined fiberglass kayak that skims the water like a dragonfly. I want my strokes to be executed with a fluid roll of my wrists and shoulders. Man, I love kayaks.

By
Alex Rich
Southeast Expedition Enthusiast and Shop Assistant